Ball Python Feeding Guide

Always feed frozen/thawed prey. Live prey will fight back — rodent bites are a documented cause of serious injury and death in ball pythons. Frozen/thawed is equally nutritious, safer, more humane, and easier to store.

• Thaw completely to room temperature before offering
• Warm prey slightly (not hot) with warm water to increase scent
• Use feeding tongs — never hand-feed to avoid training bite response
• If snake refuses, try feeding in a separate paper bag or container

• Prey should be approximately the same width as the widest part of the snake
• Slight bulge after eating is normal and expected
• Too large: regurgitation, stress, injury risk
• Too small: nutritional deficiency over time
• Mice vs rats: rats are more nutritious — transition early if possible

• Hatchlings (under 100g): every 5-7 days, pinky/fuzzy mice
• Juveniles (100-500g): every 7 days, small rats or adult mice
• Sub-adults (500g-1000g): every 10 days, small-medium rats
• Adults (1000g+): every 10-14 days, medium-large rats
• Gravid/breeding females may refuse for weeks — this is normal

Ball pythons are notorious for refusing food — sometimes for weeks or months. This is usually normal and not an emergency. Common causes:

• Shedding cycle — snakes almost always refuse during blue phase
• Breeding season (Oct-Feb) — males especially go off food
• Temperature issues — check warm hide temp (must be 90-95°F)
• Enclosure too large or insufficient hides — snake feels insecure
• Recent move or handling — leave alone for 2 weeks

• Wait 48-72 hours after feeding before handling
• Handling too soon causes regurgitation — stressful and harmful
• Regurgitation depletes nutrients and damages digestive tract
• If regurgitation occurs: wait 2 weeks before attempting to feed again