The Ultimate Betta Fish Setup

The "puddle myth" is false. While Bettas can survive in small cups briefly, they slowly die from ammonia poisoning in anything less than 5 gallons.

• Minimum Size: 5 Gallons is the absolute minimum. 10 Gallons is easier to maintain.
• Shape: Long and shallow is better than tall. Bettas need to reach the surface to breathe.
• Lid Required: Bettas are excellent jumpers. A tight-fitting lid is mandatory.

Bettas have long, heavy fins that make swimming against currents difficult. They need clean water with very gentle flow.

• Best Filter: A Sponge Filter is the gold standard. It provides aeration and biological filtration with zero dangerous suction.
• Avoid: High-flow Hang-on-Back filters can blow your Betta around the tank, causing stress and fin rot.

Bettas are tropical fish. Room temperature water is almost always too cold, causing lethargy and immune system failure.

• Temperature: Maintain a steady 78°F - 80°F (25.5°C - 26.5°C) at all times.
• Wattage: Use the "5 Watts per Gallon" rule (e.g., a 50W heater for a 10-gallon tank).
• Adjustable: Avoid pre-set heaters. Buy one with a dial so you can control the temperature precisely.

Bettas are intelligent and curious. They need enrichment and places to hide to feel secure.

• Silk or Live: Never use plastic plants. If it can snag pantyhose, it will rip your Betta's fins.
• Resting Spots: Bettas sleep near the surface. Add a "Betta Hammock" (leaf) or a Floating Log.
• Substrate: Smooth gravel or sand is preferred. Avoid sharp rocks.

You cannot just use tap water. It contains chlorine which burns fish gills.

• Dechlorinator: You MUST use a water conditioner (like Seachem Prime) with every water change.
• Testing: Own an API Master Test Kit. Test strips are notoriously inaccurate.
• Maintenance: Perform a 20-30% partial water change once a week. Never change 100% of the water at once.